 | 1. I am squatting in front of a row of Theravada Buddhist monks from three different countries (China, Thailand and Laos). We were visiting the International Buddhist Missionary University in Yangon. Behind us in the photo is the main administration building. I am wearing a longyi, the traditional sarong of Myanmar. |
 | 2. Sri Lankan yogi Mihindu Pulukkody is standing near the front door of the male foreign yogi building at Mahasi Sasana Yeithka in Yangon. |
 | 3. The front of the male foreign yogi building at Mahasi Sasana Yeithka in Yangon. |
 | 4. I am standing with three women who regularly do voluntary work at Saddhamaransi Yeithka in Yangon. The woman standing on the far right is Dr Than Than Nyien. She translated for me when I attended meditation interviews. The other woman standing next to me is Daw Wai Wai, a retired veterinarian who mainly worked in the front office. She also helped me a lot. The woman with dark hair could not speak English and I do not know her name. |
 | 5. I am donating some food to Sayadaw U Kundala, the Abbot of Saddhamaransi Yeithka in Yangon. The young man on the left of the photo is the Sayadaw's nephew (I think) who is the Sayadaw's main carer. |
Monday, 9 November 2009
Photos in Yangon 2009
Sunday, 8 November 2009
Eight Week Retreat Over
On Tuesday, 3 Nov. this week, I finished an eight week retreat that began when I returned from the visa run to Laos.
Eight Week Retreat
People have asked me what I gained from the vipassana retreat or what did I learn or what seems different now and so on. The changes seem subtle though generally I feel content and less restless than the Myanmar vipassana retreats. I also got better at noting desire as it arose and passed. I feel more confident. During the retreat I only spoke with my current teacher, Pi Yai and only when necessary. After the retreat people who live in Section 5, Wat Mahadhatu (Thai version) told me they are impressed with my determination to meditate for 8 weeks.
My routine was to wake around 3:30 am or 4 am, go down to the meditation room and meditate until breakfast after dawn at 6 am to 6:30 am. Then I continued meditating until lunch around 11 am. After lunch I continued meditating until around 9 pm.
Most of the time I alternately walked one hour and sat one hour. This is the same as my experience of vipassana meditation in Myanmar. However, I did spend some periods sitting longer such as 1.5 hours, 2 hours, 2.5 hours and maxed out at 3 hours for one sitting session. The intervening walking meditation sessions during these periods varied from 30 minutes to one hour. There was a lot of pain arising and passing and I prefer to not sit so long in one session for a vipassana retreat. Even so, I developed equanimity, persistence, truthfulness, resolution and concentration by sitting for these longer periods.
I also spent some periods alternately sitting for only 30 minutes and walking 1.5 hours. This built a lot of energy and also sprained my left Achilles tendon. This may not have happened walking on wood panel floors or carpeted floors. The meditation room floor was covered with hard ceramic tiles - no give at all. I recovered from the sprain in a few days by doing standing meditation instead of walking meditation and also by doing "walking on the spot" on top of a soft mat.
ABOVE: Video of Michael Kalyaano demonstrating walking and sitting meditation in the "basement" of Section 5 Wat Mahadhatu, Bangkok - September 2009
Pi Yai
Pi Yai is an excellent meditation teacher. I have known her since 1983. She has worked voluntarily at Section 5, Wat Mahadhatu for around 25 years. She teaches meditation to Thai people and to international visitors who drop in. I heard that Section 5 is mentioned in several travel guides. There is no fee or charge for the teaching. It runs on the traditional voluntary donation basis. Pi Yai receives no payments from Wat Mahadhatu for teaching meditation or for any of the other work she does there.
ABOVE: One of Pi Yai's intricate flower arrangements prepared as a an offering for a bhikkhu ordination at Wat Mahadhatu, Bangkok - November 2009. It consists of fresh flowers, banana leaves, candles, incense and a coloured aluminum bowl. The image on the right demonstrates the removable cone-cap.
Along with other volunteers, Pi Yai prepares and serves food/beverages, purchases and arranges flowers, counsels visitors and cleans up. She works seven days a week arriving at Wat Mahadhatu before 9 am and heading home after 9 pm. She receives a small stipend from her aged father which she uses to pay rent and cost of commuting to Wat Mahadhatu each day. I am confident that Pi Yai has a high meditation attainment.
ABOVE: Pi Yai, Meditation Teacher at Section 5, Wat Mahadhatu Bangkok - November 2009
Thai Multiple Entry Tourist Visa
When I entered Thailand, I didn't get 90 days visa that I expected, only 60 days. The multiple entry tourist visa obtained in Vientianne allowed me to extend it by 30 days in Bangkok by just going to the Immigration Office. I did this yesterday (Friday, 6 Nov) and it cost 1900 baht.
By the way, the Immigration Office recently moved from the central location near Sarthon Road to a far northern part of Bangkok near Chaengwatana Road (near Lak Si). Their new location includes many government offices in a huge, I mean really massive, office building. It is all quite new and very impressive, except that it is so far out of the centre of Bangkok.
I asked a few questions about my multiple entry tourist visa that expires after 90 days (6 Dec) and it seems that if I leave Thailand and re-enter before 6 Dec. I will automatically be given a 60 day tourist visa at the airport (no charge) which can be extended by 30 days (and payment of another 1900 baht) at the Bangkok Immigration Office.
Banglampoo - Khaosan Road
I finished the retreat on the same day as another meditator who completed a one week retreat and she recommended the Wild Orchid Villa on Soi Chanasongkram in Banglampoo near Khaosan road because it is only 10 minutes walk to Wat Mahadhatu where I did the 8 week retreat. This is the first time I ever stayed in Banglampoo, even though I've been visiting Thailand since 1981. I previously didn't like hanging out with the backpackers. This week I made friends with some and found they aren't all obsessed with beer and cigarettes. Allan from Alaska and Joan from London (via Malaysia and India) have become good friends in the short time I've known them. They taught me a lot. I have a small clean room for 250 baht per night with fans (no air conditioning) and must use a common toilets and shower area . All that is fine since I only sleep there and spend most of the day out and about. Actually I've spent most of the daytime at Wat Mahadhatu talking with Pi Yai or teaching drop-in travellers wanting to learn meditation or get an introduction to Buddhism.
Eight Week Retreat
People have asked me what I gained from the vipassana retreat or what did I learn or what seems different now and so on. The changes seem subtle though generally I feel content and less restless than the Myanmar vipassana retreats. I also got better at noting desire as it arose and passed. I feel more confident. During the retreat I only spoke with my current teacher, Pi Yai and only when necessary. After the retreat people who live in Section 5, Wat Mahadhatu (Thai version) told me they are impressed with my determination to meditate for 8 weeks.
My routine was to wake around 3:30 am or 4 am, go down to the meditation room and meditate until breakfast after dawn at 6 am to 6:30 am. Then I continued meditating until lunch around 11 am. After lunch I continued meditating until around 9 pm.
Most of the time I alternately walked one hour and sat one hour. This is the same as my experience of vipassana meditation in Myanmar. However, I did spend some periods sitting longer such as 1.5 hours, 2 hours, 2.5 hours and maxed out at 3 hours for one sitting session. The intervening walking meditation sessions during these periods varied from 30 minutes to one hour. There was a lot of pain arising and passing and I prefer to not sit so long in one session for a vipassana retreat. Even so, I developed equanimity, persistence, truthfulness, resolution and concentration by sitting for these longer periods.
I also spent some periods alternately sitting for only 30 minutes and walking 1.5 hours. This built a lot of energy and also sprained my left Achilles tendon. This may not have happened walking on wood panel floors or carpeted floors. The meditation room floor was covered with hard ceramic tiles - no give at all. I recovered from the sprain in a few days by doing standing meditation instead of walking meditation and also by doing "walking on the spot" on top of a soft mat.
Pi Yai
Pi Yai is an excellent meditation teacher. I have known her since 1983. She has worked voluntarily at Section 5, Wat Mahadhatu for around 25 years. She teaches meditation to Thai people and to international visitors who drop in. I heard that Section 5 is mentioned in several travel guides. There is no fee or charge for the teaching. It runs on the traditional voluntary donation basis. Pi Yai receives no payments from Wat Mahadhatu for teaching meditation or for any of the other work she does there.
 |  |
Along with other volunteers, Pi Yai prepares and serves food/beverages, purchases and arranges flowers, counsels visitors and cleans up. She works seven days a week arriving at Wat Mahadhatu before 9 am and heading home after 9 pm. She receives a small stipend from her aged father which she uses to pay rent and cost of commuting to Wat Mahadhatu each day. I am confident that Pi Yai has a high meditation attainment.
 |
Thai Multiple Entry Tourist Visa
When I entered Thailand, I didn't get 90 days visa that I expected, only 60 days. The multiple entry tourist visa obtained in Vientianne allowed me to extend it by 30 days in Bangkok by just going to the Immigration Office. I did this yesterday (Friday, 6 Nov) and it cost 1900 baht.
By the way, the Immigration Office recently moved from the central location near Sarthon Road to a far northern part of Bangkok near Chaengwatana Road (near Lak Si). Their new location includes many government offices in a huge, I mean really massive, office building. It is all quite new and very impressive, except that it is so far out of the centre of Bangkok.
I asked a few questions about my multiple entry tourist visa that expires after 90 days (6 Dec) and it seems that if I leave Thailand and re-enter before 6 Dec. I will automatically be given a 60 day tourist visa at the airport (no charge) which can be extended by 30 days (and payment of another 1900 baht) at the Bangkok Immigration Office.
Banglampoo - Khaosan Road
I finished the retreat on the same day as another meditator who completed a one week retreat and she recommended the Wild Orchid Villa on Soi Chanasongkram in Banglampoo near Khaosan road because it is only 10 minutes walk to Wat Mahadhatu where I did the 8 week retreat. This is the first time I ever stayed in Banglampoo, even though I've been visiting Thailand since 1981. I previously didn't like hanging out with the backpackers. This week I made friends with some and found they aren't all obsessed with beer and cigarettes. Allan from Alaska and Joan from London (via Malaysia and India) have become good friends in the short time I've known them. They taught me a lot. I have a small clean room for 250 baht per night with fans (no air conditioning) and must use a common toilets and shower area . All that is fine since I only sleep there and spend most of the day out and about. Actually I've spent most of the daytime at Wat Mahadhatu talking with Pi Yai or teaching drop-in travellers wanting to learn meditation or get an introduction to Buddhism.
Monday, 7 September 2009
Vientiane Visa Run
I'm at Vientiane. I am very comfortable and well.
Thai Visa
I was doing a vipassana meditation retreat at Section 5, Wat Mahadhatu and the date for my Thai visa came up (after 30 days). I didn't plan much beforehand so on Thursday, 3 Sept, I did some research by Internet and took a taxi to the Thai Dept. Immigration. The tourist visa extension for me is for a maximum of 7 days and would cost 1,900 baht (A$70) which is too expensive for such a short time. I had a 30 day visa granted on arrival. If I had a tourist visa granted at a Thai Embassy outside Thailand I could have extended for 30 days in Bangkok. Because I want to meditate longer than 7 days and don't want to overstay my visa, I had to leave Thailand and re-enter. The non-immigrant visa option required letters from two different organisations and was too complicated to organise in the short time left before my visa expired.
I worked out that I needed to take a tour bus or train (second class sleeper) from Bangkok to Nong Khai on Mekong River which is the border between Thailand and Laos. Then I needed to cross by taxi, bus, bicycle, boat or whatever I find convenient. I had some help from Thai friends at Wat Mahadhatu but no-one seemed to know the best thing to do or details of how to do it - there was no one with experience. This surprised me since I can't be the first foreign meditator at Wat Mahadhatu to face this problem. Never mind, I went with the flow and accepted the help and good will that was offered. Pi Yai (my meditation teacher) went with me to Dept. Immigration and later Pi Deng (a 58 yo, Thai man who previously worked with Thai International Air, and is now doing voluntary work at Wat Mahadhatu) went with me to the train station. Pi Deng indicated he was interested in going to Laos so I spontaneously invited him, he demurred and then 20 minutes later accepted even though this meant he had no spare clothes, documents, etc.).
Train Ride from Bangkok to Nong Khai
We had a bumpy ride in second class sleeper overnight, leaving Bangkok around 8:30 pm, Thursday and arriving in Nong Khai around 11 am, Friday - 3 hours late! This was inconvenient since I was hoping to be able to get to the Thai embassy in Vientiane before noon since they only accept visa applications in the morning and do not work on weekends. It was doubly inconvenient since I am still maintaining 8 precepts which means I should eat my main meal before noon. With these two competing priorities, I chose to miss lunch (and dinner while on 8 precepts) and try to get to the Thai embassy across the border. Unfortunately, in the rush to leave Bangkok, Pi Deng didn't have time to pack a small traveling bag with his passport etc, so as a Thai citizen, he had to first go to the Nong Khai local government office to apply for a temporary boarding pass (possible for Thai citizens entering Laos for a few days without a passport but using bat prachachon - Thai national ID card).
It was noon by the time Pi Deng obtained the pass and 12:30 pm by the time we got to the border crossing entering Laos. Upon arriving, I had to fill out 3 separate forms with almost the same details of name, passport number etc. and wait in a queue. As soon as I came to the head of the queue, they shut the office for 30 minutes lunch break and I had to stand waiting in the heat. Luckily it was shady, and I had the remains of a bottle of water in my day-pack.
Meanwhile Pi Deng, who is only maintaining 5 precepts and with border pass in his pocket was able to find some expensive som tham (unripe papaya salad) for lunch. Expensive because people doing business at the border have little competition and can charge what they like with poor service and low quality products. Eventually, I got through and we hired a Lao tour guide couple (husband and wife - Boonkham and Noy) with a van to drive us into Vientiane and the Thai embassy.
The Thai embassy officials said I would have to return on Monday morning to submit the visa application and then pick up the visa on Tuesday afternoon. By this time, it was 2:30 pm, I was low on energy, very hot, a little hungry and thirsty. I was fortunate in that I'd eaten a large breakfast on the train - pork rice porridge, coffee and some sweet buns, so I was not too hungry. We found somewhere to drink Lao ice coffee and then went around looking for a place to sleep.
Vientiane, Laos
Vientiane is not very large even though it is a capital city. It is not well developed but I find it clean and very comfortable. I like the Laos people very much. Lao language is similar to Thai and most Lao people understand spoken Thai even if they don't speak it themselves. It is a bit like London English compared with Northern Scottish English. It is a similar but different culture to Thailand. The Laos people are quite relaxed. This is a generalisation though. I like it here and will probably return again in the future sometime. I recommend it to everyone.
If I stayed here for a couple of months, I'd pick up spoken Lao and probably be able to read it as well. Many of the Lao language letters are similar to Thai but there are differences too. Their money is called kip and exchanges 250 kip for 1 baht or 1000 kip for 40 baht. The Australian dollar exchanges for about 7,100 kip and the US dollar exchanges for about 8,500 kip. I'm almost expert at making the calculations in my head now.
Temples in Vientiane
Yesterday, Saturday, we went touring Buddhist temples. I was not impressed with most places. The only place that touched me was Wat Si Saket near the centre of Vientiane which is apparently nearly 200 years old and the oldest standing temple in Vientiane. It has some old areas preserved as a museum like many of the other places we visited. However, one area of Wat Si Saket seemed "alive" compared with other temples. I had a "deja vu" experience and remembered an image that appeared during meditation in Myanmar where I saw a similar temple except that it was surrounded by trees - maybe in a forest/jungle hundreds of years ago, maybe a past life experience... Anyway, soon after entering this particular compound at Wat Si Saket, I felt something special as though there were devada (celestial beings) present - not like the other places. It felt sacred and the hairs on my arms rose up - kon luk. It maybe ordinary to others but felt special to me. Other places may seem special to other people but not to me... Over all I have a strong sense of having been in Laos before - must be previous lives. It seems to welcome me back... Maybe I have to spend more time here, not sure yet...
We went to a "Buddha Park" which I didn't like. There were many larger-than-life kitchy, tacky statues of various scenes from the Jataka (previous lives of the Bodhisatta) and scenes from Brahmanism all set up in a garden next to the Mekong River. Closer to the river, I felt an evil presence and sensed there were probably many asura (demons) and peta (pret) in the area. I speculate that many people were treated badly and murdered at this place in the past (hundreds and thousands of years). We left soon after.
We also found a temple that teaches samatha meditation in the traditional 'Bud-dho' style of Isarn (NE Thailand). Foreign tourists were going there to learn to meditate.
Next Three Days
Today, I am resting, doing Internet and meditating. I ate a lot of fruit and muesli for breakfast and had a large crusty salad and chicken bread roll for lunch in the French-Lao style. Food in Laos is excellent. I ate very well yesterday .
Tomorrow, Monday, after submitting the visa application at the Thai embassy, we will go to a Buddhist meditation temple that is out of town a bit. I want to talk with monks and meditators about Laos as a place for Buddhist meditation. Laos is not famous for meditation, but this place teaches vipassana in the Mahasi Saydaw style. I think Thai monks have been there to teach and maybe are still there.
Then on Tuesday afternoon, we will pick up the passport/visa and head back to Thailand, catch a train or tour bus and possibly arrive in Bangkok by 6-7am on Wednesday morning. I aim to apply for a six month visa multiple re-entry for Thailand. They may only give me 3 months or maybe even 1 month. It is not certain yet. Anyway, whatever they give me, I can extend this new visa from in Bangkok for at least another 30 days so I could have a minimum total of 60 days. I expect longer. I really don't know how long I will stay in Thailand before going on to India/Sri Lanka/Nepal.
Guest House
I am paying 350 baht (about $12) per night for an en suite air con room. It is very clean and comfortable. Pi Deng has a similar room at the same guest house. It is owned by Vietnamese with a mix of Vietnamese and Lao workers. There are plenty of guest houses and hotels here and many restaurants. It is all quite relaxed and comfortable. Anyone could arrive without any bookings and easily find a good place to stay that suits their budget and tastes.
Meditation
My concentration and mindfulness are still relatively strong even though I've not been meditating much since Thursday. I hope that I can continue full-time meditating again at Wat Mahadhatu from Wednesday. I have some hope that meditation will proceed smoothly. I have strong faith in Pi Yai (my current teacher) and am quite determined. My confidence in my own ability to do vipassana meditation has increased a lot too. Pi Yai has taught me to sit for longer periods to increase my upekkha, aditaana and sacca paramis (perfections for equanimity, resolution/determinations and truth). It has worked quite well so far. I sat for 2.5 hours on three sessions already. I aim to sit for 3 hours at lest and maybe make this a regular practice. I'll see how it goes. It is painful but good for building paramis. Longer sitting sessions are normal in samatha meditation too. It is easier to sit longer with samatha meditation because once in jhaana, there is no sensation of pain in the body. I'll see how it goes doing vipassana with Pi Yai for another month or so and then maybe look around for a place to do samatha if I don't go to India/Sri Lanka first.
I've been talking with people we meet and helping them understand the Dhamma. Besides donating to monks, I also help lay people in various ways. I am quite happy and content each day. Meditation, keeping 8 precepts and donating has helped me a lot.
Mobile Phone Sim Cards
My Thai mobile phone sim only gives my mobile a signal when I'm standing on the bank of the Mekong River close to Nong Khai (on the other bank) and that is not convenient for a quick call. I'd need a car/taxi or motorcycle to get there. This afternoon I bought a Laos sim card with ETL (local company) which will enable me to make calls from most places in Laos. I can recharge it (prepaid mode) locally. I'll probably collect more sim cards for other Asian countries that I visit later including India and Sri Lanka. It seems most sims expire after 12 months if they are not used. This will give me some small incentive to travel once a year to various countries. It is also inexpensive to just buy another sim card. For example the Laos ETL sim cost 50,000 kip which is the same as 200 baht.
Thai Visa
I was doing a vipassana meditation retreat at Section 5, Wat Mahadhatu and the date for my Thai visa came up (after 30 days). I didn't plan much beforehand so on Thursday, 3 Sept, I did some research by Internet and took a taxi to the Thai Dept. Immigration. The tourist visa extension for me is for a maximum of 7 days and would cost 1,900 baht (A$70) which is too expensive for such a short time. I had a 30 day visa granted on arrival. If I had a tourist visa granted at a Thai Embassy outside Thailand I could have extended for 30 days in Bangkok. Because I want to meditate longer than 7 days and don't want to overstay my visa, I had to leave Thailand and re-enter. The non-immigrant visa option required letters from two different organisations and was too complicated to organise in the short time left before my visa expired.
I worked out that I needed to take a tour bus or train (second class sleeper) from Bangkok to Nong Khai on Mekong River which is the border between Thailand and Laos. Then I needed to cross by taxi, bus, bicycle, boat or whatever I find convenient. I had some help from Thai friends at Wat Mahadhatu but no-one seemed to know the best thing to do or details of how to do it - there was no one with experience. This surprised me since I can't be the first foreign meditator at Wat Mahadhatu to face this problem. Never mind, I went with the flow and accepted the help and good will that was offered. Pi Yai (my meditation teacher) went with me to Dept. Immigration and later Pi Deng (a 58 yo, Thai man who previously worked with Thai International Air, and is now doing voluntary work at Wat Mahadhatu) went with me to the train station. Pi Deng indicated he was interested in going to Laos so I spontaneously invited him, he demurred and then 20 minutes later accepted even though this meant he had no spare clothes, documents, etc.).
Train Ride from Bangkok to Nong Khai
We had a bumpy ride in second class sleeper overnight, leaving Bangkok around 8:30 pm, Thursday and arriving in Nong Khai around 11 am, Friday - 3 hours late! This was inconvenient since I was hoping to be able to get to the Thai embassy in Vientiane before noon since they only accept visa applications in the morning and do not work on weekends. It was doubly inconvenient since I am still maintaining 8 precepts which means I should eat my main meal before noon. With these two competing priorities, I chose to miss lunch (and dinner while on 8 precepts) and try to get to the Thai embassy across the border. Unfortunately, in the rush to leave Bangkok, Pi Deng didn't have time to pack a small traveling bag with his passport etc, so as a Thai citizen, he had to first go to the Nong Khai local government office to apply for a temporary boarding pass (possible for Thai citizens entering Laos for a few days without a passport but using bat prachachon - Thai national ID card).
It was noon by the time Pi Deng obtained the pass and 12:30 pm by the time we got to the border crossing entering Laos. Upon arriving, I had to fill out 3 separate forms with almost the same details of name, passport number etc. and wait in a queue. As soon as I came to the head of the queue, they shut the office for 30 minutes lunch break and I had to stand waiting in the heat. Luckily it was shady, and I had the remains of a bottle of water in my day-pack.
Meanwhile Pi Deng, who is only maintaining 5 precepts and with border pass in his pocket was able to find some expensive som tham (unripe papaya salad) for lunch. Expensive because people doing business at the border have little competition and can charge what they like with poor service and low quality products. Eventually, I got through and we hired a Lao tour guide couple (husband and wife - Boonkham and Noy) with a van to drive us into Vientiane and the Thai embassy.
The Thai embassy officials said I would have to return on Monday morning to submit the visa application and then pick up the visa on Tuesday afternoon. By this time, it was 2:30 pm, I was low on energy, very hot, a little hungry and thirsty. I was fortunate in that I'd eaten a large breakfast on the train - pork rice porridge, coffee and some sweet buns, so I was not too hungry. We found somewhere to drink Lao ice coffee and then went around looking for a place to sleep.
Vientiane, Laos
Vientiane is not very large even though it is a capital city. It is not well developed but I find it clean and very comfortable. I like the Laos people very much. Lao language is similar to Thai and most Lao people understand spoken Thai even if they don't speak it themselves. It is a bit like London English compared with Northern Scottish English. It is a similar but different culture to Thailand. The Laos people are quite relaxed. This is a generalisation though. I like it here and will probably return again in the future sometime. I recommend it to everyone.
If I stayed here for a couple of months, I'd pick up spoken Lao and probably be able to read it as well. Many of the Lao language letters are similar to Thai but there are differences too. Their money is called kip and exchanges 250 kip for 1 baht or 1000 kip for 40 baht. The Australian dollar exchanges for about 7,100 kip and the US dollar exchanges for about 8,500 kip. I'm almost expert at making the calculations in my head now.
Temples in Vientiane
Yesterday, Saturday, we went touring Buddhist temples. I was not impressed with most places. The only place that touched me was Wat Si Saket near the centre of Vientiane which is apparently nearly 200 years old and the oldest standing temple in Vientiane. It has some old areas preserved as a museum like many of the other places we visited. However, one area of Wat Si Saket seemed "alive" compared with other temples. I had a "deja vu" experience and remembered an image that appeared during meditation in Myanmar where I saw a similar temple except that it was surrounded by trees - maybe in a forest/jungle hundreds of years ago, maybe a past life experience... Anyway, soon after entering this particular compound at Wat Si Saket, I felt something special as though there were devada (celestial beings) present - not like the other places. It felt sacred and the hairs on my arms rose up - kon luk. It maybe ordinary to others but felt special to me. Other places may seem special to other people but not to me... Over all I have a strong sense of having been in Laos before - must be previous lives. It seems to welcome me back... Maybe I have to spend more time here, not sure yet...
We went to a "Buddha Park" which I didn't like. There were many larger-than-life kitchy, tacky statues of various scenes from the Jataka (previous lives of the Bodhisatta) and scenes from Brahmanism all set up in a garden next to the Mekong River. Closer to the river, I felt an evil presence and sensed there were probably many asura (demons) and peta (pret) in the area. I speculate that many people were treated badly and murdered at this place in the past (hundreds and thousands of years). We left soon after.
We also found a temple that teaches samatha meditation in the traditional 'Bud-dho' style of Isarn (NE Thailand). Foreign tourists were going there to learn to meditate.
Next Three Days
Today, I am resting, doing Internet and meditating. I ate a lot of fruit and muesli for breakfast and had a large crusty salad and chicken bread roll for lunch in the French-Lao style. Food in Laos is excellent. I ate very well yesterday .
Tomorrow, Monday, after submitting the visa application at the Thai embassy, we will go to a Buddhist meditation temple that is out of town a bit. I want to talk with monks and meditators about Laos as a place for Buddhist meditation. Laos is not famous for meditation, but this place teaches vipassana in the Mahasi Saydaw style. I think Thai monks have been there to teach and maybe are still there.
Then on Tuesday afternoon, we will pick up the passport/visa and head back to Thailand, catch a train or tour bus and possibly arrive in Bangkok by 6-7am on Wednesday morning. I aim to apply for a six month visa multiple re-entry for Thailand. They may only give me 3 months or maybe even 1 month. It is not certain yet. Anyway, whatever they give me, I can extend this new visa from in Bangkok for at least another 30 days so I could have a minimum total of 60 days. I expect longer. I really don't know how long I will stay in Thailand before going on to India/Sri Lanka/Nepal.
Guest House
I am paying 350 baht (about $12) per night for an en suite air con room. It is very clean and comfortable. Pi Deng has a similar room at the same guest house. It is owned by Vietnamese with a mix of Vietnamese and Lao workers. There are plenty of guest houses and hotels here and many restaurants. It is all quite relaxed and comfortable. Anyone could arrive without any bookings and easily find a good place to stay that suits their budget and tastes.
Meditation
My concentration and mindfulness are still relatively strong even though I've not been meditating much since Thursday. I hope that I can continue full-time meditating again at Wat Mahadhatu from Wednesday. I have some hope that meditation will proceed smoothly. I have strong faith in Pi Yai (my current teacher) and am quite determined. My confidence in my own ability to do vipassana meditation has increased a lot too. Pi Yai has taught me to sit for longer periods to increase my upekkha, aditaana and sacca paramis (perfections for equanimity, resolution/determinations and truth). It has worked quite well so far. I sat for 2.5 hours on three sessions already. I aim to sit for 3 hours at lest and maybe make this a regular practice. I'll see how it goes. It is painful but good for building paramis. Longer sitting sessions are normal in samatha meditation too. It is easier to sit longer with samatha meditation because once in jhaana, there is no sensation of pain in the body. I'll see how it goes doing vipassana with Pi Yai for another month or so and then maybe look around for a place to do samatha if I don't go to India/Sri Lanka first.
I've been talking with people we meet and helping them understand the Dhamma. Besides donating to monks, I also help lay people in various ways. I am quite happy and content each day. Meditation, keeping 8 precepts and donating has helped me a lot.
Mobile Phone Sim Cards
My Thai mobile phone sim only gives my mobile a signal when I'm standing on the bank of the Mekong River close to Nong Khai (on the other bank) and that is not convenient for a quick call. I'd need a car/taxi or motorcycle to get there. This afternoon I bought a Laos sim card with ETL (local company) which will enable me to make calls from most places in Laos. I can recharge it (prepaid mode) locally. I'll probably collect more sim cards for other Asian countries that I visit later including India and Sri Lanka. It seems most sims expire after 12 months if they are not used. This will give me some small incentive to travel once a year to various countries. It is also inexpensive to just buy another sim card. For example the Laos ETL sim cost 50,000 kip which is the same as 200 baht.
Sunday, 23 August 2009
Mirror of the Dhamma - Four things Posssessed by Sotapannas
This list is from the Sa.myutta Nikaaya, Mahavagga, SN.V.55.8.
- confirmed confidence in the Buddha
- confirmed confidence in the Dhamma
- confirmed confidence in the Sangha of Ariyapuggala (noble ones - enlightened beings)
- possess the virtues (Siila) dear to the noble ones, unbroken, untorn, unblemished, unmottled, freeing, praised by the wise, ungrasped, leading to concentration.
Saturday, 22 August 2009
Factors for Sotapanna - the First Stage of Enlightenment
This list is from the Sa.myutta Nikaaya, Mahavagga, SN.V.55.5.
- Association with superior persons (Ariyapuggala)
- Hearing the true Dhamma
- Careful attention - Yoniso Manasikaara
- Practice in accordance with the Dhamma
Tuesday, 18 August 2009
Ten Bases for Meritorious Deeds
The following list of ten bases for meritorious deeds (pu~n~nakiriyavathu) shows ten ways to develop wholesome kamma for the sense sphere (kammavacarakuala.m).
I strongly recommend everyone memorise this list and make strenuous efforts to put the list into practice. This will be for your benefit now and for a long time into the future.
I strongly recommend everyone memorise this list and make strenuous efforts to put the list into practice. This will be for your benefit now and for a long time into the future.
- Daana - giving generously and freely to worthy recipients such as virtuous monastics
- Siila - ethical conduct; keeping at least five precepts every day and regularly observing
8 precepts on Uposatha days (about once a week)
- Bhavanaa - mental development through meditation either vipassana-insight meditation or samatha-concentration meditation
- Apacaayana - reverence and respect for elders, parents, teachers, monastics, officials and so forth; recognising the importance of their senior or guiding role
- Veyaavacca - service for promoting the Dhamma, assisting others to do meritorious deeds
- Patidaana - sharing merit with others while undertaking meritorious deeds oneself
- Pattaanumodana - rejoicing in others' meritorious deeds; congratulating them and being happy with them during their meritorious conduct
- Dhammasavana - hearing the Dhamma or reading the Dhamma
- Dhammadesanaa - teaching the Dhamma either by speech or writing
- Ditthijukamavasena - straightening out one's views, studying Dhamma to be sure that one understands the Dhamma correctly (also sometimes spelled: ditth'uju-kamma)
Nine ways to Sharpen the Controlling Faculties - Indriyas
I copied/paraphrased these nine ways from two different English language translations of Ven. Sayadaw U Kundala's Burmese language transcriptions of Dhamma talks. I'm sorry I don't have the citation details since I left the books in Yangon.
These nine ways are also in the Visuddhimagga (The Path of Purification) by Ven. Buddhaghosa, in the section on Samaadhi. Buddhaghosa appears to have provided them to strengthen the five controlling faculties (panc'indriya) and develop samatha - one pointedness of mind. Ven. Mahasi Sayadaw and the Mahasi tradition of vipassana meditation have adapted these nine ways for vipassana meditation.
1. Direct the mind on the nature of cessation of phenomenon; incline the mind towards the dissolution or passing away of the observing and noting object.
2. Note respectfully and penetratively; note respectfully, closely and intensely to actually see the dissolution.
3. Note continuously without disruption in noting; note incessantly without break or gap so the noting will be continuous throughout.
4. Cultivate seven types of suitable (beneficial) dependables during the retreat including:
6. Contemplate the Bojjhanga Dhammas to strengthen the Indriya-controlling faculties. [This also amounts to balancing bojjhangas 2-4 (the investigation group) with bojjhangas 5-6 (the concentration group). Sati-mindfulness is neutral as far as balancing goes and is never in excess relative to any other factor.]
8. Practice to overwhelm all painful sensations/feelings [not by force of will but by patient noting and perseverence].
9. Make a determination/resolution for non-stop continuous noting until reaching perfection, don't give up observing and noting until reaching path and fruition (magga and phala) [this is for an advanced stage and usually after being instructed to do so by the teacher].
These nine ways are also in the Visuddhimagga (The Path of Purification) by Ven. Buddhaghosa, in the section on Samaadhi. Buddhaghosa appears to have provided them to strengthen the five controlling faculties (panc'indriya) and develop samatha - one pointedness of mind. Ven. Mahasi Sayadaw and the Mahasi tradition of vipassana meditation have adapted these nine ways for vipassana meditation.
1. Direct the mind on the nature of cessation of phenomenon; incline the mind towards the dissolution or passing away of the observing and noting object.
2. Note respectfully and penetratively; note respectfully, closely and intensely to actually see the dissolution.
3. Note continuously without disruption in noting; note incessantly without break or gap so the noting will be continuous throughout.
4. Cultivate seven types of suitable (beneficial) dependables during the retreat including:
- accommodation - meditation centre
- alms - convenient to obtain food, not having to walk far etc.
- conversation on Dhamma that is relevant to attaining liberation
- fellow practitioners - who are enthusiastic for bhavanaa-mental development
- nourishment - food that is suitable for the individual
- climate - not too hot, not too cold etc.
- posture - straight back and not too much pain
6. Contemplate the Bojjhanga Dhammas to strengthen the Indriya-controlling faculties. [This also amounts to balancing bojjhangas 2-4 (the investigation group) with bojjhangas 5-6 (the concentration group). Sati-mindfulness is neutral as far as balancing goes and is never in excess relative to any other factor.]
- Sati-mindfulness
- Dhammavicaaya-investigation of phenomena
- Viriya-energy
- Piiti-joy, rapture, thrill
- Passaddhi-tranquillity
- Samaadhi-concentration
- Upekkhaa-equanimity
8. Practice to overwhelm all painful sensations/feelings [not by force of will but by patient noting and perseverence].
9. Make a determination/resolution for non-stop continuous noting until reaching perfection, don't give up observing and noting until reaching path and fruition (magga and phala) [this is for an advanced stage and usually after being instructed to do so by the teacher].
Thursday, 13 August 2009
Mahasi Sasana Yeithka Foreign Meditators July 2009
Sayadaw U Jatila is a brother of Sayadaw U Lakkhana who is also a leading vipassana meditation teacher in the tradition of Mahasi Sayadaw. Both teachers have travelled and taught overseas, though both relied heavily on translators. Sayadaw U Jatila teaches at MSY for about six months every year from about June to November and spends the other six months at his base monastery near to Naypidaw.
About three days after I arrived at MSY four Chinese Mahayana monks came from Singapore where they are studying. They all spoke Mandarin well and English poorly. I speak English well and Mandarin poorly. Even so, Sayadaw U Jatila asked me to help with translating during meditation instructions, interviews twice a week and once a week for the Dhamma talks. I struggled because I hadn't learned Dhamma technical terms for Mandarin and neither were the monks familiar with Paali terms used by most Theravada Buddhists, though they knew most of the similar concepts in Mahayana Buddhism using Mandarin. We managed and taught each other a lot. They wanted to ordain temporarily as Theravada monks so I seized the opportunity to make merit and sponsored their ordinations. It was very interesting and we all learned a lot.
The Korean Monk and Korean Yogi appeared unable to speak any other languages except Korean and a few words of English so they didn't talk with anyone except each other.
I first met the Thai monk - Ajahn Sujin Decharo at Chanmyay Yeithka two and a half years ago and was able to have many fascinating conversations with him in Thai. He has been in Myanmar for nearly 5 years and recently spent 7 monks at Pa Auk Tawya. Ajahn Sujin speaks only very basic English so I also helped translate for two of his meditation interviews with Sayadaw U Jatila because the visiting Laos monk (a student at the International Theravada Buddhist Missionary University) was not available to translate at those times.
Note: Talking is not really a good practice at meditation centres. Usually it is better to practice "noble silence" to get maximum value from the time there and make the quickest progress. Even so, I learned a lot during the three weeks I spent at MSY.
About three days after I arrived at MSY four Chinese Mahayana monks came from Singapore where they are studying. They all spoke Mandarin well and English poorly. I speak English well and Mandarin poorly. Even so, Sayadaw U Jatila asked me to help with translating during meditation instructions, interviews twice a week and once a week for the Dhamma talks. I struggled because I hadn't learned Dhamma technical terms for Mandarin and neither were the monks familiar with Paali terms used by most Theravada Buddhists, though they knew most of the similar concepts in Mahayana Buddhism using Mandarin. We managed and taught each other a lot. They wanted to ordain temporarily as Theravada monks so I seized the opportunity to make merit and sponsored their ordinations. It was very interesting and we all learned a lot.
The Korean Monk and Korean Yogi appeared unable to speak any other languages except Korean and a few words of English so they didn't talk with anyone except each other.
I first met the Thai monk - Ajahn Sujin Decharo at Chanmyay Yeithka two and a half years ago and was able to have many fascinating conversations with him in Thai. He has been in Myanmar for nearly 5 years and recently spent 7 monks at Pa Auk Tawya. Ajahn Sujin speaks only very basic English so I also helped translate for two of his meditation interviews with Sayadaw U Jatila because the visiting Laos monk (a student at the International Theravada Buddhist Missionary University) was not available to translate at those times.
Note: Talking is not really a good practice at meditation centres. Usually it is better to practice "noble silence" to get maximum value from the time there and make the quickest progress. Even so, I learned a lot during the three weeks I spent at MSY.
Standing row: Korean Yogi, Korean Monk, Myanmar Translator Monk, Ajahn Sujin Deracho (Thailand), Mihindu Pulukkody (Sri Lanka), Michael Kalyaano (Australia)
Seated row: two Chinese Mahayana Monks, Sayadaw U Jatila, two Chinese Mahayana Monks
Seated row: two Chinese Mahayana Monks, Sayadaw U Jatila, two Chinese Mahayana Monks
Standing row: Korean Yogi, Korean Monk, two Myanmar Translator Monks, Ajahn Sujin Deracho (Thailand), Myanmar Translator Monk, Myanmar Translator Layman, Michael Kalyaano (Australia)
Seated row: two Chinese Mahayana Monks, Sayadaw U Jatila, two Chinese Mahayana Monks, Mihindu Pulukkody (Sri Lanka)
Seated row: two Chinese Mahayana Monks, Sayadaw U Jatila, two Chinese Mahayana Monks, Mihindu Pulukkody (Sri Lanka)
Out of Yangon - happy and well
I left Yangon and arrived in Bangkok on Friday, 7 August. It was not convenient to write blogs in Yangon though I sometimes went to Internet cafes and wrote e-mails. Most of the time I was meditating at either Saddhamaransi Yeithka (about 4 months) or Mahasi Sasana Yeithka (3 weeks). I'll write more about some that in later posts.
I learned a lot about meditation, the mind, the Dhamma, Buddhism as practiced in Myanmar and surprisingly I also learned a little about Mahayana Buddhism from 4 visiting Chinese Mahayana monks. I'll write more about these topics in later posts.
I lost about 15 kg while in Myanmar. This is partly due to not eating in the afternoon or evenings while maintaining 8 precepts. It was also partly due to frequent bouts of travellers' diarrhoea and having less exercise than usual at Saddhamaransi Yeithka. Even at Mahasi Sasana Yeithka the exercise was very low impact - slow walks and some yoga. Fruit is relatively expensive in Yangon right now with most of it being imported from China and Thailand. Most of the fruit trees in the Yangon area were destroyed in cyclone Nargis (May 2008). So the meditation centre monks, nuns and yogis sometimes didn't eat fruit or if they did it was only bananas. Even so I had good health most of the time.
Now I'm staying at Suk 11, a hostel on Sukhumvit Road. It is comfortable, friendly and central. I may stay here until mid next week and then travel on to either Nong Khai or Cha Am for a week or two of quiet time to write. While in Bangkok, I'm looking for a notebook laptop to use for writing while travelling from here onwards (India, Sri Lanka, Nepal etc.).
I learned a lot about meditation, the mind, the Dhamma, Buddhism as practiced in Myanmar and surprisingly I also learned a little about Mahayana Buddhism from 4 visiting Chinese Mahayana monks. I'll write more about these topics in later posts.
I lost about 15 kg while in Myanmar. This is partly due to not eating in the afternoon or evenings while maintaining 8 precepts. It was also partly due to frequent bouts of travellers' diarrhoea and having less exercise than usual at Saddhamaransi Yeithka. Even at Mahasi Sasana Yeithka the exercise was very low impact - slow walks and some yoga. Fruit is relatively expensive in Yangon right now with most of it being imported from China and Thailand. Most of the fruit trees in the Yangon area were destroyed in cyclone Nargis (May 2008). So the meditation centre monks, nuns and yogis sometimes didn't eat fruit or if they did it was only bananas. Even so I had good health most of the time.
Now I'm staying at Suk 11, a hostel on Sukhumvit Road. It is comfortable, friendly and central. I may stay here until mid next week and then travel on to either Nong Khai or Cha Am for a week or two of quiet time to write. While in Bangkok, I'm looking for a notebook laptop to use for writing while travelling from here onwards (India, Sri Lanka, Nepal etc.).
Friday, 3 April 2009
Abandon the Raft
The Alagadduupama Sutta (Majjhimanikaaya - M22) contains several similes, though the simile perhaps most quoted is the simile of the raft. The raft being the Dhamma, in the sense of being the teaching of Lord Buddha. We must be careful not to abandon the raft too early though. In some discussion groups I've noted that some people refer to this simile to support their own view that opponents are being too strict with the Dhamma. One person even used the simile of the raft to support his partner's use of cannabis and drinking alcohol. Another example is to claim that adhering to the Dhamma or to the five precepts is the same as clinging to rules and rituals siilabbata-paraamaasa. They also cite the old story of the Mahayaana monk carrying the woman to ford a river.
Can we abandon the raft, or even some parts of the raft, mid stream? Perhaps the time to abandon the raft/Dhamma is when the yogi has already crossed the stream and at least attained the eye of the Dhamma (sotapanna).
Majjhima Nikaya M22. Alagadduupama Sutta: The Simile of the Snake (อลคัททูปมสูตร)
13. "Bhikkhus, I shall show you how the Dhamma is similar to a raft, being for the purpose of crossing over, not for the purpose of grasping. Listen and attend closely to what I shall say."--"Yes, venerable sir," the bhikkhus replied. The Blessed One said this:
"Bhikkhus, suppose a man in the course of a journey saw a great expanse of water, whose near shore was dangerous and fearful and whose further shore was safe and free from fear, but there was no ferryboat or bridge for going to the far shore. Then he thought: 'There is this great expanse of water, whose near shore is dangerous and fearful and whose further shore is safe and free from fear, but there is no ferryboat or bridge for going to the far shore. Suppose I collect grass, twigs, branches, and leaves and bind them together into a raft, and supported by the raft and making an effort with my hands and feet, I got safely across to the far shore.'
And then the man collected grass, twigs and branches, and leaves and bound them together into a raft, and supported by the raft and making an effort with his hands and feet, he got safely across to the far shore. Then, when he had got across and had arrived to the far shore, he might think thus: 'This raft has been very helpful to me, since supported by it and making an effort with my hands and feet, I got safely across to the far shore. Suppose I were to hoist it on my head or load it on my shoulder, and then go wherever I want.' Now, bhikkhus, what do you think? By doing so, would that man be doing what should be done with that raft?"
"No, venerable sir."
"By doing what would that man be doing what should be done with that raft? Here bhikkhus, when that man had arrived at the far shore, he might think thus: 'This raft has been very helpful to me, since supported by it and making an effort with my hands and feet, I got safely across to the far shore. Suppose I were to haul it onto dry land or set it adrift in the water, and then go wherever I want.' Now, bhikkhus, it is by doing so that that man would be doing what should be done with this raft, being for the purpose of crossing over, not for the purpose of grasping.
14. "Bhikkhus, when you know the Dhamma to be similar to a raft, you should abandon even the teachings, how much more so things contrary to the teachings.
Can we abandon the raft, or even some parts of the raft, mid stream? Perhaps the time to abandon the raft/Dhamma is when the yogi has already crossed the stream and at least attained the eye of the Dhamma (sotapanna).
Majjhima Nikaya M22. Alagadduupama Sutta: The Simile of the Snake (อลคัททูปมสูตร)
13. "Bhikkhus, I shall show you how the Dhamma is similar to a raft, being for the purpose of crossing over, not for the purpose of grasping. Listen and attend closely to what I shall say."--"Yes, venerable sir," the bhikkhus replied. The Blessed One said this:
"Bhikkhus, suppose a man in the course of a journey saw a great expanse of water, whose near shore was dangerous and fearful and whose further shore was safe and free from fear, but there was no ferryboat or bridge for going to the far shore. Then he thought: 'There is this great expanse of water, whose near shore is dangerous and fearful and whose further shore is safe and free from fear, but there is no ferryboat or bridge for going to the far shore. Suppose I collect grass, twigs, branches, and leaves and bind them together into a raft, and supported by the raft and making an effort with my hands and feet, I got safely across to the far shore.'
And then the man collected grass, twigs and branches, and leaves and bound them together into a raft, and supported by the raft and making an effort with his hands and feet, he got safely across to the far shore. Then, when he had got across and had arrived to the far shore, he might think thus: 'This raft has been very helpful to me, since supported by it and making an effort with my hands and feet, I got safely across to the far shore. Suppose I were to hoist it on my head or load it on my shoulder, and then go wherever I want.' Now, bhikkhus, what do you think? By doing so, would that man be doing what should be done with that raft?"
"No, venerable sir."
"By doing what would that man be doing what should be done with that raft? Here bhikkhus, when that man had arrived at the far shore, he might think thus: 'This raft has been very helpful to me, since supported by it and making an effort with my hands and feet, I got safely across to the far shore. Suppose I were to haul it onto dry land or set it adrift in the water, and then go wherever I want.' Now, bhikkhus, it is by doing so that that man would be doing what should be done with this raft, being for the purpose of crossing over, not for the purpose of grasping.
14. "Bhikkhus, when you know the Dhamma to be similar to a raft, you should abandon even the teachings, how much more so things contrary to the teachings.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)